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Climbing at Hvězda - Hřeben od Strážné hory ke Hvězdě

35 routes
13 areas
2–6+ grades

The ridge from Strážná hora to Hvězda in the Broumov Walls offers more than 30 easier routes on 13 towers – for example Drsoň, Břicháč, Koráb, Ovád, Jasoň and Strážní. The climbing is traditional with textile protection; grades from 2 to 6+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Hřeben od Strážné hory ke Hvězdě has 35 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 6+. Explore its 13 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Nature protection: climbing is not allowed. Nature Protection Document: Public notice 2018, Map 1, Map 2, OP CHKO Broumovsko authority.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Hruška
Via the NW face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the blocks of path no. 2, up the wall into the V-crack and then through it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
To the left of path no. 2a, via the corner crack to a small platform and then a slightly… Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
In the upper face, traverse left to a gully. Through the gully and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the SE (from the blocks) along the ledge in the valley wall to the right and through… Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the valley side, through the chimney to the blocks and via path no. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Drsoň
From the SW, by stepping over from the fore-rock and through a gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Drsoň
In the right part of the NE face, via a斜(slanting) crack to the balcony and up the face… Rock Climbing
2
Drsoň
To the right of path no. 2, through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Drsoň
In the left part of the NE face, through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Drsoň
Via path no. 4 to the ledge and then right along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Drsoň
Along the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kačenka
Along the NW edge (or N wall) to the ledge and to the ring. By building (Stavěním z. s.)… Rock Climbing
4
Okrajek
Via the right crack in the NE face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Knecht
Right part of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Knecht
Left part of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Okrajek
Via opposition and the left crack in the NE face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Diamant
Via the NE overhanging crack to the top (not explicitly 'n.v.' but 'n.t.' usually implies… Rock Climbing
5
Jasoň
Left of route no. 2 via a small wall over the overhang and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Varťák
Rock Climbing
4
Ovád
From the N, via a corner crack to the pillar and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ovád
In the left part of the SW wall via a corner crack to the pillar and via route no. 1 to… Rock Climbing
5+
Ovád
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack to the pillar and via route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
4
Jasoň
Left part of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Jasoň
Right part of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Břicháč
From the NE (in the right part of the wall) up the wall and via a crack to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing
5
Břicháč
Left of route no. 2 via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Břicháč
Via the corner in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Břicháč
SW via double crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Břicháč
Left of route no. 2a via a crack over the ceiling overhang to the pre-summit and up the… Rock Climbing

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