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Climbing at Hvězda - Okolí Pánovy cesty

49 routes
34 areas
2–6+ grades

The area around Pánova cesta near Hvězda in the Broumov Walls offers almost 50 routes on 39 smaller towers – for example Opat, Poustevník, Šnytlík, Čapka, Velký fernet and Kacíř; grades from 2 to 6+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Okolí Pánovy cesty has 49 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 6+. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Nature protection: climbing is not allowed. Nature Protection Document: Public notice 2018, Map 1, Map 2, OP CHKO Broumovsko authority.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Poustevník
By SW cracks. Rock Climbing
4
Poustevník
By the right NE crack to the ledge and by the left crack. Rock Climbing
4
Poustevník
Directly up the left NE crack. Rock Climbing
4
Prašivec
From the SE, by building up (aid climbing/stacking) and up the face (ring). Rock Climbing
3
Smrk
From the S, by pillar, higher by chimney. Rock Climbing
4
Neznámá
Rock Climbing
2
Plotnička
Rock Climbing
4
Opat
The ascent starts below the NE face of the adjacent block. Up the crack to the block,… Rock Climbing
2
Hladká
Rock Climbing
5
Opat
In the left part of the SW face via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Opat
In the NW corner via the chimney to the gap between towers and right along the crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Opat
Up the NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Opat
The ascent starts in the SW gorge. Up the crack to its end, traverse left over quartzites… Rock Climbing
4
Opat
Up the SW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Ondoň
From the plateau side up the face to the ledge, along it left to the pillar and up the… Rock Climbing
2
Všivec
Along the N edge. Rock Climbing
3
Archa Noemova
From the NE, by chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Ra
By NE cracks to the end, then up the face to the left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
4
Pařez
From the SW, by straddle to the ring and up the face. Rock Climbing
6
Čapka
To the right of the E edge, up the face (ring). Rock Climbing
3
Pánova
Through the left part of the NE face to the edge of route no. 1 and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Únorová věž
In the middle of the SW face, by chimney and crack to its end. To the right, by crack to… Rock Climbing
2
Hvězdárna
Rock Climbing
5+
Čapka
From the SE, by gully to the small platform to the ring and up the face. Rock Climbing
3
Pánova
Up the SW face diagonally to the right to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
2
Pupkáč
In the N corner via a double crack (or chimney between the tower and Velký Fernet) to the… Rock Climbing
6+
Velký fernet
From the end of the gap between towers via a small face right beyond the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký fernet
From the gap between towers (from NW) via the chimney to its end. Via a small pinnacle… Rock Climbing
5
Převor
Rock Climbing
5+
Šnytlík
The ascent starts below the E corner of the tower. Via the corner crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing

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