Part of Ostrov - 2 - východní část, Jižní plotnová věž has 15 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
3
St.c
From the saddle on the uphill side traverse to the right to the center of the E wall and… Rock Climbing
5
V cesta - var
Via the Eastern route to the 1st ring, then along the edge over the ring to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4+
V cesta
From the gully near the lower V edge to the spacious balcony with slings. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Bowle
From the 1st ring of Převislé balady to the left through the overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Nátěroid
Up the wall to the left of the Northwest crack, via 3 rings to the balcony. Freely to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Převislá balada
To the left of the S edge to the fore-rock. Crack to the right to the 1st ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
J cesta
From the saddle between the fore-rock and the tower itself, onto the fore-rock and along… Rock Climbing
5
Lorenzsteinerweg
Along the western edge to the balcony and through the chimney crack to the next balcony,…
5
Spárová varianta
Via the Lorenzsteinerweg route to the 2nd balcony and then via the right overhanging… Rock Climbing
4+
JZ stěna
Left along the edge to the balcony. Up to the right along the edge and traverse right to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sharpy
Over the overhanging wall to the right of the Northwest crack, via 2 bolts to the balcony… Rock Climbing
5+
Žhavý tál
In the corner between the buttress and the tower, then up the wall to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay