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Climbing at Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)

6 routes
4+–7+/8- grades

Part of Na Tokáni, Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava) has 6 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing prohibited from 1.2. to 30.6. OP Document: NPČŠ_OOP_mountaineering 2020 and a list of permitted objects, OP body Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
In the uphill face, building up into the crack, up that and to the right up the crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
From the uphill side diagonally up the face to the pillar. Up the edge to the ring and to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
Up the face along the right uphill edge directly over 2K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
Up the center of the east face to the crack and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
At the left uphill edge (under the rappel anchor) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
Up the southeast face diagonally to the left and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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