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Climbing at Maják

541 routes
59 areas
1–10 grades

Maják in central Hruboskalsko in Bohemian Paradise offers more than 540 routes on 59 towers – for example Maják, Brána, Ottovy věže, Dívčí, Blatník and Anebo. The climbing is traditional on sandstone towers with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Hruboskalsko centre, Maják has 541 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 59 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from 11/1 to 3/31, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation authority of CHKO Český Ráj

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

1
Šavlovna
From the massif SW of the tower (called Lokomotiva) descend into the chimney and up a… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Šavlovna
Along the edge to the 1st ring (unprotected) and up the wall along cracks to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Šavlovna
From the boulder via a crack (ring) to the ledge and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Šavlovna
Via a prominent crack, higher up via a corner in the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šavlovna
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
8
Šavlovna
Up the wall over two rings left to the edge and via the "Lachtaní hrana" (Seal Edge) to… Rock Climbing
9
Šavlovna
Up the wall to the left of the start of "Cesta mečů" (Way of Swords) over a ring to the… Rock Climbing
9
Ottovy věže
From between the towers via a crack to the end at the ring. Left to the edge, along it,… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Ottovy věže
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
7
Ottovy věže
N. c. (new route) into the small cave and up over the ring to the forepeak. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Ottovy věže
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
7
Ottovy věže
In the right part of the SE face, via a corner crack under the overhang (ring on the left… Rock Climbing
6-
Ottovy věže
To the right of "Červencová spára" (July Crack) via small overhangs diagonally right to… Rock Climbing
8
Šavlovna
In the SE face to a shallow corner and along it to the end. Left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Ottovy věže
From "Úzká spára" (Narrow Crack) traverse right to the crack at the E edge (also directly… Rock Climbing
4
Ottovy věže
From the NW via a crack to the small cave. Right over the edge to the sloping ledge and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Ottovy věže
In the left part of the SE wall along a crack through a hole to the ring. Diagonally left… Rock Climbing
6
Ottovy věže
From the NE through a wide chimney between the lowest and middle tower. Along the edge of… Rock Climbing
6-
Ottovy věže
In the valley wall of the middle tower along the left edge to a boulder ramp. From there… Rock Climbing
6
Ottovy věže
From the passage between the lowest and middle tower along the edge to the ring. Over the… Rock Climbing
6
Ottovy věže
With the S corner along the double crack to the main summit. Rock Climbing
9
Ottovy věže
Along the "Foreigner's Route" several meters up and diagonally left to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing
6
Ottovy věže
From the boulder at the base of the NE wall of the middle tower, up the wall and via a… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ottovy věže
Along the edge right of the passage over a ring to the 1st ring of the "Waiting for Rain"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Ottovy věže
Up the wall into a shallow hole, through a small corner below the overhang and right to… Rock Climbing
7
Ottovy věže
From the passage between the main and middle tower through a crack. Rock Climbing
4
Stoupa
Up the center of the West wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Královský pivovar
Through the corner and diagonally left up the wall over the 1st ring to the edge towards… Rock Climbing
8
Královský pivovar
Through a crack into a hole and to the ring. Diagonally left to the edge and to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Královský pivovar
Up the center of the NE pillar via a short, steep crack into a hole and left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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