Part of 07. Centrální část, Malá bašta has 30 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority OP Administration of Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
6
Hejkal
Left of the right edge to the 1st ring, up the wall past the 2nd ring to the gully. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Drobná spára
Up the third crack from the right onto the large platform and up the corner crack past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jasná zpráva
In the center of Malá Bašta, up the prominent corner crack past a bolt (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Feroxácká
Up the crack as for "Jasná zpráva" and left up the wall to the balcony to the bolt (K).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Johanka
As for "Černá spára" to the ring, then straight up the wall past 7 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Hezký Alfréd
Up the center of the wall past 12 bolts (BH) to the rappel bolt (K). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Černá spára
Start in the corner. Up the wall under the overhang and traverse across a ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Přímý Alfréd
Up the wall to the left of the "Černá spára" route, past 7 bolts (Bh) to the 6th bolt (Bh… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Poslední tango v Havaně
Start to the left of the "Hezká Ina" route. Up the wall past 3 bolts (Bh) to the "Soutěž… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hezká Ina
Via the "Hezký Alfréd" route to the 4th bolt (BH). Then to the left up the wall past 7… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Nepovedené Slunce
In the center of the South face, by chimney and wall (2 rings) to the ledge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Půlměsíc
In the left part of the South face, by broken crack to the ledge and right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Adrenaline
On the right side of the massif, past 6 bolts to the 1st ring of the "Let's Escape to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Utečeme na jih
Up the second crack from the right diagonally to the right and upwards to its end. Then… Rock Climbing
5+
Přímá varianta ,,Utečeme na jih"
To the right of the start, up the wall and crack to the fissure. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hák za hákem
Right of the "Hejkal" route, up the wall and edge past 11 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Chladojahoda
Start up the edge to the right of the "Americký sen" route to the 1st bolt (K). Into the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Plodný rok
Up the crack and wall past 6 bolts (BH) to the rappel bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Americký sen
To the right of the "Jasná zpráva" route, up the wall past 9 bolts (BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dobrou chuť
As for "Drobná spára" to the ledge. To the right up the wall past 5 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Intervence
Up the edge to the left of the "Jasné zprávy" corner past 3 bolts (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Svačinka
From the 3rd ring of the "Země Antilop" route, up the center of the wall 4 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Země antilop
To the left of the "Intervence" route, up the wall directly to the 1st bolt (K). Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Baštiální baštlení
To the right of the start of "Černé spáry", up the crack to a ring on the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Pochcat patník
To the right of the "Černý spáry" route, along the crack to the left to a ring on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Prcek Gabriel
Start from the ledge in the lowest part of the massif. Up the wall and crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Soutěž krásy
Via the "Hezký Alfréd" route to the 4th bolt (BH). Then up the wall past 4 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Panamericana
Approximately 15m to the left of "Hezké Iny", up the wall to a small balcony (K). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Crowd Salat
To the left of "Panamericana", up the wall to the left and along the edge, then up over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
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