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Climbing at Malá jehla

12 routes
3–6+/7- grades

Part of Království, Malá jehla has 12 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 6+/7-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30, some towers until April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Přeskok
Malá jehla
By jumping from Pokladnice (Treasure Chest) to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
Přeskok
Malá jehla
From Pokladnice (Treasure Chest) jump to the right terrace. Via the face over the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Malá jehla
Right of the northern corner from the wide crack to the fissure, then via it and a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Malá jehla
In the passage chimney on the NE side of the tower (between Malá jehla and Pokladnice)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Malá jehla
In the right part of the NW face via a crack to the plateau, via the face to the pre… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Malá jehla
From the 2nd ring of the route 'Pots full of Roe Deer' to Járková by stepping over and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Malá jehla
Via the left SW wide crack to the widening, by stepping over and up the face to the left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Malá jehla
From the NW via the middle crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Malá jehla
From the start of the "Right SW Crack" via an oblique crack to the 1st ring, then through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Malá jehla
On the plateau side of the tower (in the eastern corner) via a crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Malá jehla
From the start of the Hrobeso route to Járková by traversing right and via an overhang to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4
Malá jehla
Via the right SW wide crack to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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