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Climbing at Medusy

17 routes
3–7/7+ grades

Part of Panoptikum, Medusy has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7/7+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

6
Medusy
The start is at the pillar on the NE side. Via a chimney right to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Medusy
The start is below the left part of the NW wall (behind the pillar). Via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medusy
In the middle of the NW wall via a notch to the end and left via chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Medusy
In the middle of the NW wall via a chimney to the ledge, traverse right along it into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Medusy
Start via the chimney of the Bloudivá (Wandering) route. Below the ledge, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Medusy
Via the Valley Route into the recess and left along the wall to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medusy
Along the ledge of the Kavčí (Jackdaw) route to the chimney and through it, later via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Medusy
To the left of the southern corner via a chimney to the 1st ring, via a crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the right part of the NW wall (between Medusas and Midžim) via a crack and a chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Medusy
In the middle of the SW wall via a crack into the recess. By building, via a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medusy
Along the Innocent Route to its ring and to the right via an斜 crack to the balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Medusy
To the left of the start of the 'Cracked Corner' route, traverse along the ledge left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Medusy
From the inner area (left of the 'Too Much Harms Everything' route) via a chimney and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the middle of the plateau (SE) wall via small cracks to the ring (building from a seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the left part of the plateau (SE) wall via a conical chimney and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Medusy
At the eastern corner of the tower via a wall and a crack to the platform. Via a chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the inner area in the right part of the SE wall via a chimney between the tower and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger

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