Part of Jižní věže, Milenecká has 22 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 8-/8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
The possible occurrence of specially protected species of plants and animals may be a reason for operative restrictions, which will be announced on the official board of the PLA Administration and marked in the field.
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: OOP PR Křížová cesta 2018-2028, authority OP CHKO Broumovsko.
The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only.
Climbing may be seasonally restricted in part of the area (the "Zdoňovský oblouk jih celoroční" sector is open all year). Check the dates in the ČHS crag database.
- The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
- Creating or chipping holds is banned.
- Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
- No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4-
Z nouze
(UIAA 4) From the chimney (between the tower and Malá milenecká) up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
8-
Nedokončená
(UIAA 8-) From the 2nd ring of route no. 7, down the wall and along route no. 8 to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Spára
Left of the north corner of the tower up the wall, higher up a wide crack to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
6-
Přemlouvačka
Right of the Old Route, up the wall (ring) to the birch tree and by the Old Route Variant… Rock Climbing
3
Údolní
(UIAA 3) Access between Milenecká and Tom. Through a system of chimneys and up the wall… Rock Climbing
?
Tukaní přeskok
(UIAA Jump 1) From the summit of Malá milenecká, descend 2m through the crack in the… Rock Climbing
6+
Hormonální porucha - var
(UIAA 6+) Left of the North corner, a wide crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hormonální porucha
(UIAA 7-) Below the center of the NW wall, from the weathered rock, traverse in holes… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Věrné milování
(UIAA 8) From the fore-rock on the NW side, through the overhanging crack (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Levá varianta
From the starting block of the route 'Věrně milování', traverse the wall to the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Ze soutěsky - Bobova varianta
(UIAA 6-) About 3m below the 2nd ring, traverse left to the gully, up it and right along… Rock Climbing
5+
Na první pohled
(UIAA 6-) Through the crack of route no. 3 and right wall into the niche. Along the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Jarní pudy
(UIAA 5+) From the NW end of the corridor, chimney up to the balcony with a ring. Right… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Aprílový žert
(UIAA 7) From the fore-rock below the center of the NW wall, traverse right along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Ze soutěsky
(UIAA 6-) Through the crack in the SW wall to the 1st ring. Left wall to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Varianta
(UIAA 3) Via the old route to the end of the gully, to the right to the birch tree and… Rock Climbing
3
Stará cesta
(UIAA 3) From the fore-rock onto the SW via a groove diagonally to the right, down along… Rock Climbing
5
Bouřlivá
(UIAA 5+) Through the gully of route no. 1 for about 2m. Traverse the wall down (clocks)… Rock Climbing Textile belay