Part of 10. Ostroh Gilotiny, Otec has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Overhang.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
3
Komín
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Komín - Varianta
Up the chimney to 3/4 of its height, traverse the E wall along the ledge to the left and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Západní cesta - Detektivní varianta
In the right part of the NW wall, up the wall and riblet to the terrace and as 'West… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Dítkám
From the left of the chimney along the small pillars via the overhanging wall and crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Sluneční cesta
As 'West Route' to the plateau. From its right edge, through the gully to its end, over… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Zeď nářků
Access in the left part of the valley (S) wall. Diagonally right up the wall, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Západní cesta - Varianta
Via the 'West Route' to the plateau. Through the middle of the wall under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Západní cesta
On the W side from the boulder, up the wall to the left into a crack and through it to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Jméno růže
Through the middle of the S wall diagonally right over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Písečná bouře
Through the center of the valley wall over an overhang (BH) via a crack (BH) to the end … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Urvi co můžeš!
As 'Sandstorm' over the overhang and left to the BH. Up the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Past na Špeka
From J through the crack (BH) to the end and further up to the ledge to the K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Olověný brouk
Left of "Silence after the path" over 6 BH to K of "Melancholic Blues". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Ticho po pěšině
In the right part of the valley wall over 7 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Melancholické blues
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif on its E side briefly upwards, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Horská cesta
From the massif above the tower, descend via a gully and crack to the ledge at the level… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Stará cesta
Descent from the massif and at the level of the tower's summit, traverse in the West face… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1