Panteon in the northern part of Bohemian Paradise is an area of tall massifs with more than 300 routes on 20 walls – for example Belvedér (south face), Kluziště, Bílá stěna, Malý Panteon and Centrální stěna – I. liga. The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 11.
Part of Northern areas, Panteon has 303 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 20 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.
Rules
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round except for some routes on Sokolí věž from July 1st to January 31st. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Belvedér - jižní stěna Kluziště Bílá stěna Malý Panteon - severní stěna Centrální stěna - I. liga Malý Panteon - jižní stěna Mnich Centrální stěna - II.liga Vrchol s křížem Centrální stěna - střed stěny Věž Ivy Kovářové Centrální stěna - levá část U lomu Centrální stěna - plotna Panteonská jehla Panteonský špičák Věž nad kaplí Náprstek Rezavá stěna Centrální stěna, II. patro
5
Jižní spára
Up the shallow crack in the right part of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Černá magie
Like the "Saddle Route" up the crack, left and up the wall to the small plateau … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lomikarova pěšinka
Step from the boulder onto the SW edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Západní hrana
Up the wall to the left of the edge on the plates to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Západní stěna
Up the chimney to the wedged boulder, step into the wall and through the hollow. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7
Severní vítr
Up the small corner under the overhang, directly to the horizontal crack, left along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Východní stěna
From E up the chimney over the wedged boulder and with a high step. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Normální cesta
From the plateau below the W face diagonally left to the NW edge, left behind the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Varianta- Operace meniskus
Via the "North Wind" route 4 meters to the horizontal crack (sling), up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Varianta
Up the "East Face" to the wedged boulder. Right behind the edge and along the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Za štastný návrat
From Mnich by jumping onto the ledge in the W face and via the 'Normal Route' to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zvonivá hrana
Along the SE edge to the resonating block and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Traverzová
From the 'Normal Route' traverse upwards into the N face and up the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Varianta
Along the NE corner through the holes, traverse right into the left chimney in the N face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Severní spáry
From the path below the N face along the left or right crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Spárová cesta
Middle of the South wall along the prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Východní spára
From the platform through the crack all the way to the South wall and onto the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Téměř nic
Left of the SW edge up the wall to small cracks, higher up via a double crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bez polibku
Through the crack under the overhang, traverse right under it and over it to the pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vrcholová stěna
Up the wall between the corner and the edge diagonally to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dávno lezená
Up the wall into the crack, follow it to the end, right into another crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Východní sestupová
Through a prominent corner from the NE easily to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay