Part of 10. Ostroh Gilotiny, Pivní kámen has 18 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Overhang.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
6+/7-
Velké Popovice
Double stance at the E edge to K and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Samson
At the left edge of the E wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Děčínský ležák
From the start of the "East Wall" route, directly up the wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Rádler
Along the right edge of the NE wall past 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Východní stěna
From the center of the NE wall diagonally right past K to the N edge (BH) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Východní stěna - Varianta
From K of the route "East Wall" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Západní cesta
Up the W wall along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Vejry v hlavě
Left on the N wall via a crack (K), then diagonally left along the small cracks and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Tygří žert
Up the N wall from the right past 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Viry v hlavě
Follow the route "Owls in the Head" to its 1st K and from there directly up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Plochá dráha
Through the middle of the W wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Cesta v ponožkách
By standing in the chimney between the tower and the adjacent block, and via that to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4-
Plochá dráha - Varianta
From K diagonally left and then along the crack running to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Rychlé pípy
To the right of the "Flat Track", up the wall past K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Prvnáček
From W diagonally right up the wall past 2 BH to a large block (abseil BH) and via the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Malý piva
Right up the SW wall past 2 BH to the large block and as "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Varianta (Staré cesty)
To the right of the Prvňáček route, with a swing up onto the slab and then left into the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
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