Part of 08. Ostroh Východního rohu, Porcelánová stěna has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4+ to 9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Overhang, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
8+/9-
Sekaná
Start like the Forehand route and on the right up a protruding pillar past 6 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Forhend
On the right in the V wall, up the crack to a ledge. Up the right corner crack under an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Bekend
Like the route "Forehand", up the crack to a ledge. Up the left corner crack, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Jakoto
From the start of the route "East Wall", left up the wall past 3 bolts into a falcon-like… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Východní stěna
Start in the V wall, up the crack to a ledge, traverse 5m to the right to an edge, up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Modré meče
To the left of the start of the route "Forehand", up the wall and edge past 3 points into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Zapp zarapp
Like the East Wall, up the crack and directly up the wall past 3 bolts to the rib of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Lachende Bestien
To the right of the Plate Route, from the edge of the ledge, up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Talířová cesta
In the right part of the SE wall, a crack over an overhang to the K. Left to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8+/9-
Gejša
To the left of Talířové cesty over overhangs (3 BH). From the 2nd BH slightly right and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Střep
From the 1st K of the „Talířové cesty“ along the edge (2 K). From the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Sloni v porcelánu
Start up the wall to the left of the „Talířové cesty“. From the left to the 1st K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Majolika
To the right of the Perpetuum fragile route, up the wall over 3 BH to the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Manufaktura
Start up the "Majolika" route and follow it to the 5th BH of the Perpetuum fragile route.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Perpetuum fragile
Start to the right of the Návrat čochtana route. Diagonally right to the blunt edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Návrat Čochtana
From the left from the gorge, directly to the 1st K and slightly left to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Pâte sur Pâte
Start to the left of the "Navrat čochtana" route. Up the wall and over overhangs (5 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
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