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Climbing at Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)

6 routes
4-–7-/7 grades

Part of Jetřichovice, Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu) has 6 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing on this rock is allowed year-round. Nature Protection Document: NPČŠ_OOP_horolezectví 2020 and a list of permitted objects, Nature Protection authority: National Park Administration of Czech Switzerland

Some towers near Jetřichovice are closed permanently – see the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector.

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
To the right of the Old Route, traverse to a crack and follow it to a ring. Up the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
By the valley edge, higher up a crack to a ring and (building from the ring) diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
Up the right upland edge and crack, then higher left to the platform and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
From the start of the Old Route, climb the wall to a ledge and then left across a slab to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
On the left in the upper wall to a balcony and by a rib to a ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
To the left of the Path of Long Shadows, diagonally left up the wall to a ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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