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Climbing at Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)

45 routes
2+–9/9+ grades

Part of Vysoká Lípa, Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad) has 45 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Overhang, Spare Route.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing on this rock is allowed year-round. Nature Protection Document: NPČŠ_OOP_horolezectví 2020 and a list of permitted objects, Nature Protection authority: National Park Administration of Czech Switzerland

- Climbing is only possible in places and periods specified by a generally binding measure from 2020. - To access the rocks, it is necessary to use marked access paths and, in quiet areas, mountaineering routes. - The obligation to comply with the "Rules for climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia" applies. The use of magnesium is prohibited. - First ascents are only possible with the prior permission of the National Park Administration, coordinated by OVK Labské pískovce. See the minutes of the meeting with NPČŠ from 3.12. 2021, including the list, for the current proposal to limit first ascents.

Nature Conservation: Climbing possibilities and conditions are set by NPČŠ_OOP_mountaineering 2020 and the list of permitted objects, OP authority Administration of NP České Švýcarsko (Bohemian Switzerland National Park). Specific permits and prohibitions are listed at each rock and route.

8+/
To the right of the staircase in the valley wall, up the…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
At the end of the first staircase, left to the ledge to the…
Rock Climbing
5
From the passage between the first and second staircase on…
Rock Climbing
5+
To the right of the gate, up the crack to the platform…
Rock Climbing
7-/
To the left of the "West Crack" route, up the crack (2…
Rock Climbing
6
From the 1st ring of the West Crack route, to the right up…
Rock Climbing
9/9
From the 5th bolt of the "Wolf in sheep's clothing" route,…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Up the wall, crack, and chimney to the top.
Rock Climbing
8+/
To the right of the "Goat's Corner" route, along the edge…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/
To the left of the route (z) through cracks (ring) to the…
Rock Climbing
4-
Through the crack and chimney to the top.
Rock Climbing
8-/
In the narrow SW wall, directly up the wall over 3 rings to…
Rock Climbing
8+/
Up the wall along the left edge of the route "Ralskyho…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Up a slightly overhanging corner over the overhang, above…
Rock Climbing
4+
Through the corner crack to the top. Direct.
Rock Climbing
4-
Through the narrowing chimney to the top.
Rock Climbing
4+
From the break in the corner, directly up the chimney to…
Rock Climbing
9/9
To the right of the Conical route via the edge (ring) and…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7
About 4m along Sarka's Route, then diagonally right below…
Rock Climbing
5
Through the crack and fissure into the small cave, over the…
Rock Climbing
4+
Along the wide crack into the window and via the chimney to…
Rock Climbing
5+
To the left in the S wall via a small pinnacle/arete and…
Rock Climbing
5+
To the right of Sarka's Route, via a widening crack (ring),…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Higher up via a small pinnacle/arete and crack to a loose…
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
From the corner via a pyrite depression into the niche,…
Rock Climbing
2+
Via a system of chimneys to the summit.
Rock Climbing
5+
Through the crack and up the wall over the overhang, then…
Rock Climbing
6+/
To the left of the 'Diagonal Crack' route, up the wall…
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay Overhang
6
To the left of the 'Overhang' route, via a crack and up the…
Rock Climbing
4+
Along the diagonal crack below the overhang and via the…
Rock Climbing

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