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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

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Benešova věž
By a jump from the Side Tower to the balcony and via a steep ascent to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Benešova věž
Via a stem/opposition move to the crack, up that to the balcony and via a small wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Amerika (Fakir)
From the left into a rail/ledge and traverse right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jehlánek
Up the right plateau edge, difficult to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bochan
Along overhanging small falcon features to a small ledge to the ring and obliquely right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Amerika (Fakir)
In the right part of the plateau wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jehlánek
Up the valley wall via a small corner, difficult to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Benešova věž
From the block to a wedged stone between the towers and up a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Amerika (Fakir)
From the east to the ledge below the abseil, along it to the western edge and up that … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Jehlánek
Right of the NC start via a small wall below the summit, then a step left into the route … Rock Climbing
9
Baronova věž
From the 2nd ring directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Baronova věž
In the NW wall (via stance) into a crack and through it into a hole to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Baronova věž
Along the SE edge on brittle holds to the ring. Up to the ring of 'St. c.', obliquely… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Helmy
In the right part of the wall from the gorge via a falcon-shaped crack to a ledge, left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baronova věž
Through a bell-shaped closing chimney to the fore-rock. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Záškodník
Left of the valley edge up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Žalmista
Along the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Yankee
Up a slightly overhanging wall to the ring and left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Záškodník
From the slope, right of the edge up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Záškodník
Up the overhanging valley wall via holes to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
6
Helmy
From John Harlin's gorge via a corner crack (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž bratří v triku
Banana corner route to the ledge. From there directly via overhang, recess, and wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Věž bratří v triku
In the middle of the narrow valley wall via the corner and wall onto the large ledge on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž bratří v triku
From the platform with a steep ascent to the ledge to the ring. From the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž bratří v triku
Right of the center of the plateau wall directly via an overhang along the small corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž bratří v triku
From the platform via a gully to the left valley edge and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž bratří v triku
In the very right part of the wide plateau wall directly via an overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž bratří v triku
Along another rounded edge left of the 'Cranberry' (route) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž bratří v triku
Left of NC via an arched edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž bratří v triku
In the left part of the wide plateau wall via a crack (variant 'Gooseberry Route')… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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