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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

5
Předskalí blíženců
Through the crack (spike/arete) and higher up a narrow chimney to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing
3
Posvícenská věž
Through the S-chimney between the tower and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Prst
Up the center of the pillar via cracks and up the wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Posvícenská věž
Along the left valley edge and up the wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Posvícenská věž
Through the J-chimney between the tower and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Podkova
Along the cracks (knots) to the shelf. Through an overhanging crack over the bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Posvícenská věž
By jumping from the E edge. Rock Climbing
7
Posvícenská věž
Along the right plateau edge and up the wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Pětichlapka
With the help of five men over a ring to the summit. (to the ring by aid climbing, top… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Pětichlapka
Through the center of the left valley wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Pětichlapka
From the valley from the ledge up the wall along the edge and through a small chimney… Rock Climbing
7
Paraple
Through a slightly overhanging corner crack over a ring under the overhang to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Panenka
Through the valley crack to the rock block and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Osvobozená stěna
Up the wall to the ledge, right to a narrow crack and up it (loops) to the shelf. Easily… Rock Climbing
6-
Osvobozená stěna
Right of the corner up the steps and into the corner to the ring. Up and higher left … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Osvobozená stěna
Up the valley wall over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Osvobozená stěna
Up the wall along cracks (weak loops) into the recess to the ring. Over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Osvobozená stěna
Up the corner to the block, step across into the crack (knots) and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Osvobozená stěna
Diagonally right up the crack to the corner and up the crack left of the corner to the… Rock Climbing
9
Orlí hnízdo (Junák)
From the ledge up the wall over 2 rings and via small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Orlí hnízdo (Junák)
From the ledge via a crack to a ledge. Right to the ring and via small cracks to the… Rock Climbing
6
Orlí hnízdo (Junák)
Up the wall into the cave. Rock Climbing
4
Okupant
Through the right crack into the corner and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Okupant
Through the crack (knots) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Orlí hnízdo (Junák)
Up the crack to the ring, right into the wide crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Náhrobek
Up the valley wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally left to the edge and along it to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Negr
In the right part, via the small tower to the 1st ring and up the wall over the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Negr
Up the center of the wall over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Negr
Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Náhrobek
In the right part of the valley wall, over a small overhang and right into a crack. Up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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