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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

4
Agora
Through a wide crack to the ledge and a hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Okrajník
Through the wall into holes, left into the chimney and up to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Krajní věž
Via the chimney or by jumping to the lower tower and by topping out to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krajní věž
Up the middle of the valley wall along a small crack over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kulisák
Via the fissure to the balcony and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kulisák
From the balcony, from the tree, up the wall through the hole under the overhang and to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kulisák
Up the center of the valley wall to a ledge, then traverse right along it to the edge.… Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí hrad
To the right of the 'Pěstovka' route, up the wall and corner to the ring, directly higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mravenčí hrad
South corner over the ledge into a shallow crack and along it to the balcony. Left under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mravenčí hrad
Start as NC to the first ledge. Left to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Mravenčí hrad
Start as 'Pěstovka' route approx. 3m. Traverse left along the ledge to the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Mravenčí hrad
In the middle of the valley wall, up the wall and over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Nad bivakem zapadajícího slunce
Via a small corner into the hole, traverse right (ring) into the crack and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Nad bivakem zapadajícího slunce
Up the wall to the ring and from the right, raise into the crack. Higher up via a narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nad bivakem zapadajícího slunce
From the bivouac, via the overhanging wide and斜 crack to the end to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Osmivěží
In the right part of the valley wall over the overhang and up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Osmivěží
Up the iron-streaked valley wall over 3 rings to a ledge. Traverse left into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Osmivěží
Through the crack to the left of the valley corner crack directly to the plateau and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Osmivěží
In the left part of the valley wall via a small crack to the 1st ring. Up to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Osmivěží
Up a short edge to the small tower and step over to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osmivěží
From the SW passage between the gap in the small towers or directly from the boulder over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Osmivěží
By jumping from the edge to the nearest small tower and stepping over to the main summit. Rock Climbing
5
Paleček
In the right part of the valley wall to the ledge (knot), right behind the edge and with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pankáč Hranacír
In the right part, traverse through the wall chimney left into the wall and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pik štěpik
Straight up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Rantl
Through the corner (ring) and higher up the crack behind the flake to the 2nd ring. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Risák
Up the wall with honeycomb structures to the 1st ring. Along the small ledge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Rohlinská
From the cave, traverse left and over the overhang via the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rohlinská
Up the slightly overhanging side wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Rohová věž
Up the wall below the abseil point to the ring. From the right, up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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