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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

5
Risák
Up the wide crack from the valley. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rantl
Through the overhang into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Rantl
Up the narrowing chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rantl
To the left of the passage, up the crack in the corner (hourglass) to the end. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pyramida (Střecha, Perníková chaloupka)
Traverse right along the ledge and up the slab. Rock Climbing
4
Pyramida (Střecha, Perníková chaloupka)
Up the small wall below the abseil point. Rock Climbing
6-
Zdenčina skála
Via the "Zuzaki kokaki" route and from the 2nd Q right via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Poslední
From the edge to the ring, slightly right and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Poslední
Through a narrow chimney from the plateau side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Plivník
Via the small buttress in the NW wall to the ring, right onto the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Plivník
Via the left valley edge over 1 ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Osmivěží
Through the center of the SE wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbabělec
Directly over the overhang to the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zbabělec
From the valley from the left to the edge and directly over the ring to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Osmivěží
In the right part of the valley wall along the small pillars (protection) to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Osmivěží
Through the passage from the NW between the tower and the edge into a wide chimney. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Osmivěží
Through the passage from the SW to the end at the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Koník
Along the NE edge to a small ledge and via the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Károvská věž
Up the wall over a conspicuous large hole directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Károvská věž
Via the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Kabát
Via the crack into the cave. Left and with a pull up to the 'ear' (bolt). Into the holes … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jižan
Via the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jinojmenná
Via the SE edge to the sloping ledge, then along it to the center of the E face and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Jinojmenná
Traverse to the valley wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Jinojmenná
To the left of the 'Někdy příště' (Maybe Next Time) route, up the wall through a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Jinojmenná
Through the middle of the valley wall under a large overhang (ring), directly over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jinojmenná
In the left part of the SW wall, over the overhang to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jinojmenná
Through the NW chimney to the wedged boulder and by bridging between the tower and the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Odeon
Up the middle of the wall via a crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring, right… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Odeon
Along the left valley edge to the right of the chimney and up the wall next to it over 2… Rock Climbing

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