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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

1
Čudlík
Up the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Čudlík
Up the right uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mládě
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mládě
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Žejdlík
Start on the left side of the NE face. Via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Žejdlík
Up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Žejdlík
Rock Climbing
5
Žejdlík
From the NW crack or directly left over the overhang to the edge and along it via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žejdlík
Over the overhang and through the middle of the NW wall (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Žejdlík
Overhang to the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Žejdlík
From the south edge diagonally left to the center of the south wall and over the holes to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žejdlík
Via the west edge over the overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Žejdlík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žejdlík
Via the south edge over the hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Papaláš
Start as for Valdštejnské embryo and then directly up the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dvojčata
Along the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojčata
Diagonally left up the face behind the edge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojčata
By the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojčata
From the start of Heavy Metal, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojčata
From the valley, through the notch and up the wall past 1 ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Dvojčata
Chimney to the saddle and via the "Normal route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Dvojčata
Via steps to the saddle and right or left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojčata
By the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dvojčata
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nová věž
From the ledge in the valley wall diagonally right to the ring and up to the ledge. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Nová věž
From the balcony below the NE wall, from the left to the fall line of the abseiling ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Nová věž
From the plateau side to the balcony below the NE wall. Along the right edge up a shallow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Nová věž
Through the valley crack (ring) to the NE balcony and normally to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nová věž
Lift into the hole and from it slightly diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nová věž
In the left part of the NE wall briefly along the edge (hourglass) and a long traverse to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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