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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

8
Klouzačka
In the left part of the wall, directly over the 1st ring to the gully to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Klouzačka
Up the wall to the 1st and 2nd rings. Directly (or arching from the left) onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Klínek
From the foreground rock, ascend to the ledge, left cracks and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Klínek
From the west, via the crack to the foreground rock. Right (knot) and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Klínek
Blunt SE edge into the crack hold (knot) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Keson
Into the arch with a curved splinter over the bolt to the platform (classic V). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-/6
Keson
From the platform along the shallow crack to the ledge. Ascend to the ring and from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kazatelna
Step over from the boulders into the crack (knot) and follow it over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
Hand crack in the right part of the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kazatelna
Crack in the corner to the saddle. Rock Climbing
3
Kazatelna
Prominent crack to the splinter and right into the saddle. Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
From the valley, traverse the crack over the wedged boulder (knot) to the saddle. Right… Rock Climbing
4
Kazatelna
Through the chimney behind a prominent splinter onto the balcony (ring). Up the chimney… Rock Climbing
4
Kazatelna
From the saddle, left iron crack (knots). Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
Via a prominent crack and chimney over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
Via the crack to the right of the edge to the ring. Further via the double crack into the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Junácká věž
From the 1st ring of the route Nebo co. upwards and left to the ring. Left onto the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Junácká věž
Along the right valley edge to the 1st ring of the route "Purpurové klouby", then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Junácká věž
Approach like Purpurové klouby, first diagonally right then left in the ledge and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Junácká věž
Along the edge directly to the 2nd ring of the route Nebo co. (whole IXc) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Junácká věž
From the left valley edge diagonally right to the 1st ring, up a small wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Junácká věž
From the boulder to the right onto the edge to the 1st ring, along the edge directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Junácká věž
From the 2nd ring, along the edge directly to the next ring and from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Junácká věž
From the boulder in the plateau wall directly into the dihedral to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Junácká věž
In the left part of the NW wall along the crack into the hole to the 1st ring, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+
Jůlinka
In the left valley wall, briefly up the crack, then up the wall to the right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Junácká věž
Through the middle of the SE wall along the holes to the 1st ring, then by standing up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Jůlinka
Via the route "Voblikéron" to the 1st ring, then along the right crack, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Jůlinka
From the base of the adjacent massif, jump across to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Jůlinka
In the middle of the valley wall up the overhanging wall and a small crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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