The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
6
Qakeři se vrací
Via a small iron-stained wall and a crack over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Damoklův kámen
Through a narrow chimney over a jammed boulder (sling) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krteček
Through a crack (knot) to a ledge (ring) and through a crack (knots) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rajc dekle
To the right of the valley edge, up the wall and over a small overhang to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Koutová varianta
Through a corner over a ring to the 3rd ring of the Znamení duhy route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Znamení duhy
Up the wall from the valley over 2 rings to a small balcony and from the right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Buřty z dálky
In the left part of the wall, up and right to a ledge. Up the wall to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Vlažné párky
In the left part of the wall directly to the 1st ring. Up the wall and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Veselý zpěv mrchotrubců
In the right part of the valley wall, directly over a ledge into a large corner and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stejně tu ženu nikdy nedoženu
Via a crack and a small pillar in the corner (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Turbomontáž
From the balcony in the left part of the valley wall, up the wall diagonally right to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Sloní ucho
In the left part of the valley wall, from the boulder to the small pillar flake and up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Sací komando
In the right part of the left valley wall (left of the wide corner), through a crack to… Rock Climbing
8
Rohožka
Via the small pillar crack of the Sloní ucho route to the grassy ledge. From there, up… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Prstomlejn
To the right of the valley edge to the 1st ring, through a crack to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Otoman po dědkovi
In the left part of the upper wall, via a small pillar to the 1st ring. Up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7-/7
Helmut fon Sajrajt
In the middle of the first left side wall, directly over the overhang and crack via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Oregonský sen
Through a narrow corner chimney over a balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Květa se nekoná
Up the wall and a hollow-sounding small pillar to the ring. Up the wall and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Igelitišfutrál
In the right part of the left side wall, up the wall to a ledge, along it to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Klófn fógl, klófn
In the left part of the side wall (must be well slung!), through small pillar cracks and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Colorado
Along the right edge into a small corner, through it (sling) and a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Faktor strachu
To the left of the 'Veselý zpěv mrchožroutů' route, to the 1st ring via the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Čtyři rumíčky
Along the left valley edge to the 1st ring. Up the wall to a ledge, right to the center… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Čundrák, náčelník světa
In the middle of the valley wall, directly to the terrace into the niche. Briefly via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Buržoazní strašák
To the right of the Prstomlejn route, up the wall and through a crack to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
A ven!
Following the Four Rumochs route over the 1st ring to the ledge. To the left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
A pivečko na zapití
Following the Four Rumochs route over the 1st ring into the hole. Traverse right and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Alabastrová cesta
In the left part of the SW wall over the ledge to the bolt. To the right to the pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Přechodová cesta
From the NW edge along the ledge to the right and via a crack in the NW wall to the… Rock Climbing