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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

4+
Bumbrlíček
In the right part of the valley wall, by crack to the end (slings), traverse left under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bumbrlíček
Along the short plateau crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Princeznička
By the edge to a small balcony and left along the edge, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Princeznička
By corner crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Princeznička
By chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Faraon
In the right part of the valley wall along the small chimney to the ring. Pull-up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Princeznička
From the valley through a crack to the balcony and through a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Princeznička
In the left part of the side wall to the ledge (bolt). Lift to further ledges and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Faraon
Left valley edge to the balcony and briefly to the foot of the rock. Through the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Jakubice
In the upper wall on the right to the edge and the ledge. Through a corner or crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Flamendr
Rock Climbing
7
Flamendr
Right valley edge over a bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Smrkový masiv
Straight from the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Madlenka
From the valley, from the boulder to the slab and along its right side to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4
Madlenka
To the right of "Abnormal Route", a short crack to the edge of the slab and along it to… Rock Climbing
4
Madlenka
From the valley, from the boulder to the slab and diagonally left across the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Madlenka
Up the wall over the handle, difficult to the right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Madlenka
From the uphill side, a crack running to the left to its end. Rock Climbing
3
Madlenka
In the left part of the uphill wall. Rock Climbing
2
Madlenka
Rock Climbing
2
Madlenka
Rock Climbing
6
Čajovna
Wide chimney (hourglass) to a ledge and a step over to a ring. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čajovna
Corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kašpar
Near the left downhill edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Kašpar
Left part of the wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kuželka
Briefly through a chimney and left into the wall to a ring. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Penzista
Along the edge of the wall to a hole (hook). Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kuželka
In the right part of the downhill wall, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sultán
Through the middle of the wall, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Sultán
Left downhill edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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