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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

3
Balvánek
Via a notch into a hole and right below a ring. Rock Climbing
6
Balvánek
Up the center of the face along small cracks. Rock Climbing
5
Balvánek
Below the SE edge via an overhang to a ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Balvánek
Along the NE edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Balvánek
Directly up the East face (East Face route) to the level of a prominent shelf. Traverse… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Balkón
From the East by stepping across to a boulder and by stepping across or overhanging into… Rock Climbing
6
Balkón
From the North from the gully via an opposition chimney to a balcony in the valley face … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Balkón
From the East via a chimney between the boulder and the tower into the slab. Easily up… Rock Climbing
4
Balkón
From the North via a short, wider crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Alenka
Up a side wall along a crack to a horizontal shelf and right to the edge. Along it via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zapadlá
Through a loose crack in the center of the valley wall to the ring, then left into the NW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Zapadlá
Rock Climbing
6
Zapadlá
Up the wall along the SW edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zapadlá
From the circle further through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zapadlá
Along the edge from the uphill side or via a small crack from the right to the boulder… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zapadlá
Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Začátečník
Up the wall from Ulita over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Začátečník
Through the recess along the lowest valley edge and along the edge (hourglasses), from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Začátečník
NW: via a narrow wall along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Začátečník
Jump from Ulita Rock Climbing
7
Začátečník
From NC, traverse left along the ledge to the ring of the 'For Start' route, then up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Začátečník
Through a shallow corner from the uphill side to the false summit and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vrata
Through the wide crack over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vrata
Start the same as Moratorium, continue via the left heavily overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
2
Vrata
Through the chimney in the left part of the wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Vrata
Through the right crack over 2 rings and a mantle to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vlkodlak
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Vlkodlak
Through the corner chimney from the upland side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vlkodlak
Directly over the ring to the ledge. Up the slab diagonally left to the edge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vlkodlak
From the chimney to the small crack and along it (slings/loops) to the end. Right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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