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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

3
Hlava
Along the ledge from west to east to the SE edge. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hlava
Directly up the middle of the SE wall (higher up slightly to the right) to a ledge.… Rock Climbing
7
Hlava
Along the NE edge to a ledge and still along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hladká věžička
By standing on the edge. Rock Climbing
7
Hlava
Start about 1m to the right of the SE edge on the wall to the right onto a ledge and… Rock Climbing
6
Hlava
Up the wall to the left of the edge onto a terrace. NC to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hladká věžička
By standing into the smooth wall. Rock Climbing
4
Fuňas
Through a wider and considerably dirty crack in the right part of the E wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá u rozcestí
Through the middle of the valley wall by a crack to a ledge, through a crack to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Dvojitá u rozcestí
Through a crack from the path. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Dvojitá u rozcestí
Through a crack along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Drban
Up the plateau wall via the ring and the hourglass feature (somewhat to the left) to the…
5
Drábský koník
Rock Climbing
6
Drban
Left of the western edge (right part of the NW wall) up the wall to a step. Along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
7
Drábovna
Up the wall to the left of the W edge. Rock Climbing
6
Drábovna
Left of the Primátorka route, through a chimney with wedged boulders, higher up through… Rock Climbing
6-
Drábovna
Through the corner crack below the S edge, hawk-like below the overhang. Through the… Rock Climbing
6-
Drábský koník
Along the eastern edge (first slightly from the left, higher up directly) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Drábovna
Between the Primaterka route and the NE chimney, a hawk-like feature, then left into a… Rock Climbing
7
Drábovna
Through the corner to the right of the Primátorka route via a small cave to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Drábovna
Through a recess in the NE corner (in the fall line of the bridge at the summit) to the… Rock Climbing
6
Drábovna
Through a crack from the SW to the right of the W edge. Rock Climbing
4
Císařovna
Through a small gully from the east to the slab. Up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Císařovna
From the north (From the Head) up the wall and through a finger crack into the gully. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vybíhačka
Rock Climbing
6
Utajená věž
Via the overhanging crack from the valley over the ring to the ledge (hourglasses). Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ulita
Via the crack in the S valley wall to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ulita
To the right of the S edge under the overhang, right and up to the W fore-summit. Along… Rock Climbing
3
Seveřan
Up the SE crack to the fore-summit (knot) and briefly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Rohová věž
From the ring, traverse 1.5 m to the left and along the diagonally receding notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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