The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
5+
Měsíční hrana
In the left part of the SE wall and higher up along the edge to the ring. Directly along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Děravá cesta
Via the NW edge or cracks to the ledge, left into the hole (knot) and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Měsíční hrana - nouzová var
From the ring slightly upwards, traverse left into the notch and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Babí léto
Right part of the overhanging SE wall to the ring and right through the groove to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rekreační cesta
From the passage with opposition to the ring and diagonally right to the balcony. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mirčina cesta
In the right part of the NW face diagonally to the right to the ring, then to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Utrpení mladého školníka
Up the wall via the ring (without using the tree) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hodina
Up the NE face (below the rappel point) through the hole directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Valdštejnské embryo - var.
Up the left part of the face directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Valdštejnské embryo
In the right part of the SW face, over the overhang and diagonally left over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Normální cesta
Through the NW chimney in the passage to the wedged boulder. Then SE corner to the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
To mi hlava nebere
Via the "Holá pláň" route to the ring. Traverse diagonally left to the "Měsíční hrana"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Přeskok
Jump from the foresummit to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mateřídouška
Over the overhang in the NE face, directly with a stemming technique (without using the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sodomie
Directly up the E edge or easier, traverse from the right and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Normální cesta
Up the SE face to the left to the edge (clock) and along the rounded steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Deflorace
Through the gully in the SE face near the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hříchy mládí
Through the center of the raised face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Severovýchodní stěnka
Through the center of the small wall and along the corner to the ring. Directly over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Normální cesta
In the S overhanging wall, into a shallow hole at the edge, traverse left to the second… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Gérard Philipe
Up the NW wall to the ring and right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Fanfulínek
Through the center of the valley wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velikonoční vajíčko
Start with an overhang on the S edge, then up and NC to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1