Part of 10. Ostroh Gilotiny, Sicilská stěna has 25 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 6 to 10+/11-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7-/7
Mafiánské Tanga
In the very right part of the wall, up the slab wall (3 BH) and further left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mafiánské tango
From the 3rd BH of the "Mafia Men" route, directly up the pyritic wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Noční můra
To the right of the "Vendetta" route, over BH and 3 rings to the ledge (BH). Continue up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Mafiáni
Through the corner crack, later via the gully running to the right over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Green Slimer
To the right of the "Mafia" route, along the blunt edge and higher up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Vendetta
In the right part of the wall, along the crack and through the fissure to its end.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Bezzubý Yuchen
To the left of the "Vendetta" crack, up the overhanging wall over 6 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Cosa Nostra
Via the "Vendetta" route 2 m up and left to the ring. Along the edge and up the wall (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Corleone
To the right of the "Vendeta" route, over the hourglass and 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Nebezpečné stoupání
Through the overhanging crack and up the wall over 6 BH to the 7th BH. From there, go up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+/11-
El Bombone
From the 4th BH of the "Al Capone" route, go up and right into the hole (BH) and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
La Bomba
From the 4th BH of the "Dangerous Ascent" route, go left and up the wall over 3 BH into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Nebezpečné stoupání - Varianta
From the 7th BH, diagonally right almost to the 6th BH of "Toothless Yuchen" and back to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Italské capriccio
Through the chimney at the base of the wall to the pinnacle, from there into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Smrt s celerem
Via the "Celery" path to the 3rd ring of the "Bestseller" path and right into the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Bestseller
From the block left of "Italian Capriccio" up the overhanging wall and along the crack (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Zbytečná smrt
From the 2nd ring of the "Bestseller" path, directly through the crack and right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Al Capone
To the right of "Italian Capriccio" up the wall over 4 BH and from the left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Bouřlivá Etna
Between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney to the balcony and E wall over 2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9/9+
Celer
From the first ring of the path "With celery" directly via BH to the 3rd ring of the path… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Lauschgift
Along the "With Celery" path under the overhang, briefly right and directly over it (1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
S celerem
To the right of the start of the "Stormy Etna" path up the wall below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Calzone
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall from the balcony to the left of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Les vepres siciliennes
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney over the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3