Part of 10. Ostroh Gilotiny, Sierra madre has 14 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
9/9+
El Camino del Rey
To the right of the "Cao News" path up the wall over 5 BH to the belay. BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Cao News
In the right part of the terrace along the crack (1st BH) and up the wall to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Existence
To the right of the El Camino del Rey path along the blunt edge (1st BH), from the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
O ha le
Access from the upper terrace and left to the balcony to the 1st BH. Up the slabby pyrite… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Goyathlay
Together with the Oha path below the overhang. Directly over it and the edge (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Strix
Through the corner in the middle of the upper wall over 2 BH diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Cesta pokojného bojovníka
To the right of the corner along the edge and wall over 4 BH diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Entre dos tierras
Start via the route "Path of the Iron Nut" and from the 4th BH directly up the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Cesta železného oře
To the right of the "Geronimo Trail" path, up the wall directly and then diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Speedy Gonzales
From the 6th BH of the "Iron Nut" path, diagonally left up the overhanging wall across 6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Odvedu vás do Siera Madre
From the lowest point of the wall along the blunt edge over 4 BH and a slabby wall into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Geronimova stezka
From the ledge at the start of the "Old Route" to Indiánka, right up the corner crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Supové Mexika
From the ledge at the start of the "Old Route" to Indiánka, right up the falcon-like… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Český vrabec
Like Vultures of Mexico, up the crack (BH) to the balcony and right up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3