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Climbing at Španělská stěna

12 routes
3–10 grades

Part of Vstupní obvod, Španělská stěna has 12 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

3
Španělská stěna
From the through cave under the tower via the inner chimney to the pre-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Student's Twin Crack route via a crack in the corner to the hour… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Španělská stěna
In the right part of the NW wall via a crack to the pre-summit. Via the Student's Twin… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Španělská stěna
From the south via the corner crack (circle) to the pre-summit. Via the Student's Twin… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +4
4
Španělská stěna
To the right of the start of the Swimming Mariáš route via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
Via the Southwest route Six Meters and to the left via small pinnacles to the 1st circle.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Španělská stěna
From SW by aid climbing and a system of cracks (circle) to the pre-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Španělská stěna
To the left of the eastern edge (by aid climbing) via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Španělská stěna
Via the route "Farkaš's Chimney" about 3 m below the overhang, traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Španělská stěna
In the northern corner via a twin crack and chimney to the pre-summit. Via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5
Španělská stěna
Via the NE chimney through the narrowing to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
10
Španělská stěna
In the left part of the south wall via a crack and wall over two circles to the exit of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall

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