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Climbing at Starostová

19 routes
5+–8-/8 grades

Part of Město, Starostová has 19 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 8-/8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

5+
Starostová
Via the Old Route into the transverse inner chimney, right with a step-over into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Starostová
To the left of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route via a corner crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Starostová
From the south side via a corner crack to the pillar, then via a chimney to the next… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Starostová
From the 3rd ring along the edge (2 rings), higher up via grooves (ring) below the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Starostová
From the valley (NE) side via the inner chimney to the blocks. Left chimney into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Starostová
To the right of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route, via a corner crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Starostová
From SE via a corner crack (1st ring) and chimney to the pillar. From the left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Starostová
From the NE (from Velryba) via chimney and crack to the pillar. Aided to the ring, aided… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5+
Starostová
From the tourist path above the staircase, through the corridor into the inner space to…
6-
Starostová
To the right on the valley side of the tower, behind the adjacent blocks, via a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5+
Starostová
From the valley (NE) side via the inner chimney to the blocks. Right chimney, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7
Starostová
Start via the Old Route, then inside to the right, via a chimney and continuously right… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Starostová
To the left of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route to Starostová, via a chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
From SW via a conical chimney to the first pillar to the 1st ring. Left up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starostová
To the left of the Wedding as a Belt route via a chimney (ring) to the pillar. Right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Starostová
Via the “Ilja's Legacy” route to the first pillar to the abseil ring. Very delicately up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
To the left of the start of the route “Akademik as a pig”, initially via the pyrite crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
Left of the start of the "Doplněk" route (to Whale) by crack through the hole to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
Via the "Doplněk" route (to Whale) to the ring and below it left by ramp and wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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