Part of Dolní labyrint, Stěna starých pánů has 11 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 8-/8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Danger, Textile belay.
Rules
- Climbing is only allowed in designated areas. - It is forbidden to damage or modify the surface of the rocks (improper rope handling, chopping steps...). - It is forbidden to damage vegetation, it is forbidden to remove vegetation, wood, or soil from the rocks. - It is forbidden to use magnesium or other substances that increase friction. - It is forbidden to use belay devices that damage the rocks. - The Rules for Climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia apply.
Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round Nature conservation document PP Kočičí skály, decision 2024-2035, Appeal Appeal-Decision MoE 2024-2036, authority Nature Conservation Administration PLA Broumovsko.
The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only.
The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.
- The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
- Creating or chipping holds is banned.
- Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
- No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7/7+
Klasici v důchodu
In the right part of the NE wall, up the small pillar in the center of the detached… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Přímá varianta
By way of 'Retired Classics' to the 3rd ring. To the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tátova
To the right of 'Variant (Lančova)' directly up the wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Šedá teorie
Up the left part of the NE wall (1st ring) directly to the 2nd ring. Left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Doznak
Left of the E edge, up the wall over the overhang (1st ring) and along the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Pionýrský odznak
Right of the E edge, up the wall (3 rings) to a small plateau at the slanted crack. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Lančova
In the left part of the wall via the pillar and wall to the ring. Above the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
4-
Norovací
From the SE, up the crack (ring) to a vegetated balcony. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Nátisk
By way of 'Lančova' to the ledge above the ring. Directly up the wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Varianta (Lančova)
In the fall line of the 'Lančova' route's crack, go directly up the wall to its start.… Rock Climbing Danger