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Climbing at Štěpánská koruna

25 routes
4-–8+/9- grades

Part of Město, Štěpánská koruna has 25 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Textile belay, Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to April 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

5+
Štěpánská koruna
Aided climb from a wide crack from an older ring from Abbé's Route, 2 rings, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Štěpánská koruna
Via the right SW crack to the SW summit. Descend to the saddle and then via the Plateau… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
The ascent starts from the plateau side from Hrobař. Traverse through a chimney below the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8/8+
Štěpánská koruna
Start to the right of the "Pimp's Dance" route. By the wall (4 rings) into the crack of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
Start to the right of the "Lower var. Valley Route". By a crack to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Direct Variant of Little Red Riding Hood's Way left by a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the edge of the Terrace by an overhanging corner and a crack to the platform. By a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Štěpánská koruna
From the terrace on the valley side by the route "By the Corner" several meters up. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the left by a corner crack to the pillar (climbed from the pillar without aid). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the chimney of the Old Route by stepping left, by a crack to the pillar (2nd rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Terrace to the left of the start of the Old Route by the wall to the narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Štěpánská koruna
To the left of Tublatanka by a sharp edge over a ring to the 2nd ring below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Terrace by a chimney and in the upper part by a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
At the southern corner, ascend the chimney to a block. Along the face following the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
Via the Skalní pych route to the block. Traverse and ascend the face to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Štěpánská koruna
In the middle of the SE face, ascend a chimney to a block and a crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Štěpánská koruna
Opposite the Old Route, from the SE face to the pillar. Through the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Štěpánská koruna
In the left part of the SE face from the terrace, ascend the face to the pillar, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
To the right of the chimney of the Cat's Ballet route by the wall, a small crack and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Štěpánská koruna
In the right part of the SE wall by a chimney, a crack to the ring, (with aid from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Štěpánská koruna
By the East Crack route to the large hourglass and traverse by the wall right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
From the 4th ring by the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Štěpánská koruna
To the right of the start of the Lower Variant of the Valley Edge by cracks into the cave… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
To the left of the north edge by a crack to a small platform and by the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
From the edge of the Terrace by the wall left to the balcony. Descend by a crack about… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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