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Climbing at Middle Vltava region

1243 routes
21 areas
1–11+ grades

The Middle Vltava is the largest climbing sub-area of Prague and Central Bohemia. Crags and quarries line the valley of the Vltava and its tributaries – the largest are Roviště, Skály u Velké and Lomy nad Velkou, followed by Mařenka, Skály u Pakosty, Kamýk, Žebrákov, Zvírotice, Solenice and Hříměždice. Sport climbing on vertical walls dominates, often in the sun, so it climbs well in the cooler months too. Check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Prague and Central Bohemia, Middle Vltava region has 1243 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
  • Be considerate of the owners of cottages and gardens below the crags.

In nature reserves you may climb only on specifically designated rocks. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

6
Kouzelný lom
Along the edge over rock (implied: placements) along cracks to the anchor of the 'Path… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Kouzelný lom
Start the same as C. Go or don't go to the small balcony and from there left up a smooth… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Kouzelný lom
Small crack to the left of the 'Path for Gita' route. Down through a small corner to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Kouzelný lom
Start the same as 'Where Are You, Idiot', above the first, then continue along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kouzelný lom
To the left of 'Path of the Classics', up the vertical wall over rounded holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
Kouzelný lom
Start along the edge like the Brudrysima route, above the first bolt of that route, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9+
Kouzelný lom
Over 3 bolts into the 'Where Are You, Idiot' route and then to its anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kouzelná stěna
Route along the sharp overhanging arête located completely on the right. Without… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9/9+
Kouzelný lom
To the left of 'Sunny Side of the Street', start from a prominent corner, up the wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
Kouzelný lom
To the left of the 'Where Are You, Idiot' route, up the wall (almost in the center of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kouzelná stěna
To the right of the corner, up the broken wall on your own (traditionally protected). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Kouzelná stěna
To the right of 'Legendary', through the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Kouzelná stěna
Along the crack that leads to the left of a prominent sharp edge (with placements).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Kouzelná stěna
In an indistinct corner, there is a crack; follow it (with placements) to the anchor. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Kouzelná stěna
To the right of the route 'Position of the Lying Archer'. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Kouzelná stěna
Through the small corner between the routes 'Short' and 'Legendary'. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Kouzelná stěna
Along the sharp hawk-like edge, over two bolts (BH) and then over the final overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kouzelná stěna
Slightly from the side with a short upward surge over a small overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Nový svět
From the right terrace (ring), up the wall (bolt) over the overhang (bolt) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nový svět
From the right terrace, along the left edge over 3 rings to the anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Nový svět
From the right terrace (ring), through the corner over 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nový svět
From the terrace behind the right edge, up the wall over a sling and a ring to the anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nový svět
About twenty meters from the 'Right Left-Handed' route, at the same level, there is a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Nový svět
Along the right edge by the water, over two hooks to the ledge and up the wall (2 hooks)…
5+
Nový svět
Through the corner and left up the crack to the ledge. Up the wall over Jack's last hook… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
7
Nový svět
Through the corner and along the edge to the ring. Along the edge over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Nový svět
Up the center of the wall to the right of Jack's Laughter to the ledge, then straight up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
7-
Nový svět
Overhanging wall over 5 bolts and further through the overhanging top of the wall -… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Nový svět
The route above the water furthest to the right in the front wall, through a corner over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Nový svět
Overhanging edge to the right of Aeroflot. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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