Part of Suché skály, Střední věž has 38 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Damaged Route.
Rules
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Some routes on Sokolí věž are closed from 1 February to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
4
Severní cesta
Through the middle of the N wall to the left of route no. 27 to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Smuteční
Via the N wall from the memorial plaque, over a spike to a ledge. Up the wall and a short… Rock Climbing
1
Normální cesta
From the NE, along the ridge to the left of the gully and through the gully to the window… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Moderní jištění
Via the smooth E wall to the right of route no. 23, over 3 pitons to the summit.… Rock Climbing Vertical wall Damaged Route
6-
Překvapení na konec - var
Along the edge to the ledge, via a delicate wall diagonally right and along route no. 22… Rock Climbing
6
Východní cesta
From the saddle between the Main and Middle Tower, left upwards into the niche (sling)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Turnovská
To the right of route no. 20, via a wide crack to its end, traverse right to a ledge with…
7-/7
Překvapení na konec
Via the crack of route no. 22 to the hourglass and along the edge to the ring. Up to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Recidiva
Along the right edge of the pillar to the ledge (protection), over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
6
Východní spára pilíře
From the saddle into the crack between the wall and the pillar, up it to a small ledge … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vega - var. Studio kamarád
Along the left edge of the pillar (left of Vega) via a spit to the 2nd ring of Vega and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Vega
In the middle of the S wall of the right pillar to the 1st ring and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7
Válečná cesta
Through a prominent depression and up the wall, further diagonally right and along the… Rock Climbing
5
Západní spára pravého pilíře
From the right corner in the S wall, via a crack (piton) to the top of the pillar. Via… Rock Climbing
?
Vega - var
Along the edge to the crack and then up it, or diagonally left to the top of the pillar. Rock Climbing
8
Jižní stěna přímo
Through a depression, over a small overhang into a niche under the overhang, over it into… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Chroustův nápad
To the left of the War Route up the wall to the ring, up (piton) about 3 m, diagonally… Rock Climbing
8
Cesta M. Černého
Through a depression up and left into the wall to a small overhang (piton). Diagonally… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Super major
Up the smooth wall and via a fine crack (pitons) to the platform under the wedged boulder… Rock Climbing
9
Verticala
Via the route "Chroustův nápad" (Chroust's Idea) to the ring, up to the 2nd ring, over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Gradace
Up the wall directly to the ring, up and left to the ring of route no. 11. Right up into… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Je to paráda
Up the wall directly to the 1st ring of route no. 9 (unprotected), directly over the… Rock Climbing
5
Jižní traverz
Via the crack in the corner formed by the left pillar and the S wall, to the niche, from…
6-
Major
Up the wall over a bolt hanger (BH) into the crack, along it (protection) and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
10
Kobra
Along the left edge of the pillar to the 1st ring. Up to the ledge and over the overhang … Rock Climbing
8-/8
Cesta brejlovcú
Via route no. 5 to the ring. Right into the corner and through it under the overhang (3… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Nebeský pilíř
Along the SE edge of the left pillar under the overhang and through a small corner to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay