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Part of Drábské světničky, Tučňák has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 8-/8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall, Fixed belay.

Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

8-/8
Tučňák
From the gorge right of the E edge directly to the 1st ring. Up the overhanging edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Tučňák
From Stařena (Old Woman). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Tučňák
Up the valley wall diagonally left to the edge and up the left valley edge over 4 rings…
6
Tučňák
Up the East edge to the end of the crack and left (ring) onto the slanting slab. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Tučňák
Up the wall to the balcony, traverse left to the crack and along it to the ring. Up the…
6
Tučňák
Along the edge left into a hole, back to the edge and along it to the ring. Up into the…
6
Tučňák
Left up the wall from the "For gentlemen in tails" route, up the overhanging wall to the…
7-/7
Tučňák
Up the plateau wall diagonally left to the edge. Along the edge over a ring to the second…
3
Tučňák
Due to rock damage in 1976 (block collapse), the route ceased to exist. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2

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