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Part of 08. Ostroh Východního rohu, Ústecká věž has 18 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Textile belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Nature protection: tower closed from February 23rd to June 30th due to nesting.

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

5+
Ústecká věž
Start to the left of the "Left Valley Chimney". Up the wall to a belay station in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Ústecká věž
Via the upper edge, at the top to the right of it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Ústecká věž
To the right of the "Left Valley Chimney", up the wall via 6 K to a ledge and to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Ústecká věž
In the left part of the valley wall, up the chimney into the gully, through to the upper… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Ústecká věž
Up the blunt edge between the "Valley Route" and the "Šach Mat" route to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Ústecká věž
Via the Šach –Mat route to the 6th K and further directly and up the overhanging wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Ústecká věž
Like the Velká rošáda route above the 3rd K. Up the wall and the overhang, first slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Ústecká věž
From the 2nd K of the "Valley Route", up the crack to where it disappears under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Ústecká věž
To the left of Biorytm, up the wall via 9 BH to the last BH of Biorytm and to the K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Ústecká věž
To the left of the valley edge, up the wall via 2 BH to a balcony (K). To the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Ústecká věž
Up the crack in the middle of the valley wall via 2 K almost to the end. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Ústecká věž
From the "Biorytm" balcony, up the middle of the wall via a K and 4 BH. Then diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Ústecká věž
Up the crack in the north face via 1 K to a ledge and traverse left behind the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Ústecká věž
To the left of the crack of the "Apollo" route, climb the wall via a BH to a balcony.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Ústecká věž
Via the Sojuz route to the 2nd K of the Apollo route, and via that further under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Ústecká věž
From the start of the "Stará cesta" route, descend to the left to the edge of the massif… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Ústecká věž
From the ledge, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Ústecká věž
In the NW face, to the left of the upper edge, climb the small wall to a ledge, to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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