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Part of Kapelník, Útesy has 13 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4 to 8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st.Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps body PA PLA Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

6
Útesy
Up the overhang left over 2 rings and up to the 2nd ring of the "Hasta la vista Radane"… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Útesy
Up the wall over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
Up the corner over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Útesy
To the right of the "Continuum of Transience" route along the edge over 5 rings to the… Rock Climbing
7
Útesy
Up the crack and left up the wall to the ring. Straight over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
To the right of the "Memory Optimism" route up the wide crack, higher up the middle of… Rock Climbing
4
Útesy
Up the crack. Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
Freely to the small tower, left to the edge and up the wall (two rings). Rock Climbing
7
Útesy
Up the wall over the ring left into the crack and up it over the 2nd ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
Up the prominent corner to the end, ring. Left to the ledge and up the "Delusion of… Rock Climbing
6
Útesy
To the right of the "Blue Devil" route, from the corner diagonally left and up the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Útesy
Up the overhanging groove and left to the 1st ring. Up the wall over 2 rings directly to… Rock Climbing
6-
Útesy
To the right of the corner up the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing

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