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Climbing at V Horách - Mydlářské kameny

32 routes
13 areas
2–6+ grades

Mydlářské kameny in the V Horách part of the Broumov Walls offer more than 30 easier routes on 13 towers – for example Rozeklaná, Ušák, Děvín, List, Zarostlá and Dvoják; grades from 2 to 6+.

Part of Broumov Walls, V Horách - Mydlářské kameny has 32 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 6+. Explore its 13 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Zarostlá
By opposition between the NW edge and the opposite rock, via an overhang and up the face… Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
Left part of the NE face about 2m and left along the edge of route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
Via the overhanging SE face to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Patník
From E with the aid of a small overhang to the SE edge and right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bota
From SE by a small crack and by standing up from a belay to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Patník
Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná
Rock Climbing
6
Rozeklaná
Along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozeklaná
Up the E face to the SE edge and along it to the pre-summit. Via route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
2
Bota
From NE over rocks and by standing up to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná
From E by chimney to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ušák
By gully in the NE face to the plateau and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
List
Up the NE face to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
List
Along the W edge to the balcony and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
List
From W by leap to the balcony and by route no. 2 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dvoják
Rock Climbing
5
Dvoják
From the east along the edge (watch) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dvoják
From the fore-rock by SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Desátá
Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Desátá
From SE up the face to the plateau and right up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Mydlářský kámen
From NW by crack, gully and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Tnutá věžička
By crack to the right of the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Tnutá věžička
From N by crack to the plateau and by overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Ušák
Along the SW edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ušák
Rock Climbing
4
Ušák
Along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Lesnická
In the E face by a small overhang, standing from a belay to the SE edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
6
Čumákotorusek
Along the east edge to the summit (this is more like a boulder problem). Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Reach out and traverse under the overhang to an overhanging wall, then diagonally right… Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Over the overhang into the wall, then about 4m upwards, over several overhanging blocks… Rock Climbing

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