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Climbing at V Horách - U Turka

21 routes
11 areas
2–7-/7 grades

U Turka in the V Horách part of the Broumov Walls offers more than 20 routes on 11 towers – for example Mraveniště, Termitiště, Samotář, Machovská věž, Trůn and Blíženci. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 7-/7.

Part of Broumov Walls, V Horách - U Turka has 21 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 7-/7. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Friends.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Samotář
Up the South wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Samotář
Rock Climbing
5+
Samotář
Up the NE wall below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Trůn
Up the NE wall and via a small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci
From W via a crack (sling) and traverse in the notch right to the ring. By building (up)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trůn
From SW via a crack to a platform, along the S ridge below the summit and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6+
Obr
From NW up the wall to a boulder. From there, up the N wall to the W ridge and along it… Rock Climbing
5+
Zoubek
Rock Climbing
5+
Termitiště
From the NE, via a crack (ring) to the splinter and the "Spiral" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Mraveniště
Through the S chimney to the pre-summit and route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
3
Termitiště
From the east, via a system of cracks to the splinter and up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Friends Laid wall
7-/7
Termitiště
From the fore-rock on the SW side, up the wall along the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Prcek
Rock Climbing
5
Mraveniště
From the NW, via a chimney to the plateau, left chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Mraveniště
From the NE, over boulders to the plateau and route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
5
Mraveniště
To the left of route No. 2, via cracks and a chimney to the balcony. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Mraveniště
From the N, via a crack to the balcony and up the wall to the pre-summit. Route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
4
Machovská věž
From the NE, through the falcon's crack below the summit and to the left up the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Obří
Via the NE chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Machovská věž
From the S, through the crack below the summit and route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
4
Krajní
From the NW, via a crack to the splinter and up the SW wall along the edge. Rock Climbing

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