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Climbing at Valečov

29 routes
10 areas
2–8 grades

Valečov on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise is a quiet area with almost 30 routes on ten rocks – for example Čarodějka, Kuřátko, Marbulínek, Kohoutí kámen, Slepice and Hranol; grades from 2 to 8.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Valečov has 29 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8. Explore its 10 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

5
Čarodějka
Up the V edge, right into the N wall, through it over the overhang into the gully and up…
7
Turistická věž
Through the wall over the ring to the summit.
6
Čarodějka
Through the N wall right under the overhang, over the overhang into the hole and along…
6
Čarodějka
Through the East wall directly to the ring.
7
Čarodějka
From the center of the SW wall obliquely left into the hole to the ring and obliquely…
6
Čarodějka
In the right part of the N wall obliquely right to the NW edge and along the edge to the…
5
Slepice
Through the E wall to the balcony, traverse right to the edge (hour-glass). Behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slepice
Along the NW edge to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Slepice
Through the center of the E wall to the ledge, left behind the SE edge to the ring and…
3
Kuřátko
Along the edge below the abseil. Rock Climbing
4
Kuřátko
In the left part of the plateau wall along the crack and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kuřátko
Up the chimney in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Kuřátko
To the right of the plateau chimney up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kuřátko
Up the chimney in the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Hranol
Up the NE face to a ledge, then diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hranol
Up the NE face to a ledge, left via the gully (hourglass/thread-through anchor) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hranol
Up the center of the SW face over two hourglasses (thread-through anchors) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věžička u Valečova
Through the holes to the ring and to the summit.
3
Věžička u Valečova
Along the N edge to the pulpit with a window, right into the corner and up it to the…
4
Kohoutí kámen
In the left part of the SE wall, left behind the V edge and via the gully to the window.…
4
Kohoutí kámen
From the S edge along the gully through the SE wall to the NC window.
4
Kohoutí kámen
Through the corner in the valley wall to the window and left along the cracks to the…
5
Boseňská věž
Up the left plateau edge to the ledge (hourglass/thread-through anchor), left and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Marbulínek
In the plateau wall obliquely left. First known ascent by M. Klonfar, J. Šplíchal ml., P.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Marbulínek
Through the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Marbulínek
Along the valley edge, higher obliquely right to the ring and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bunclavská věž
Up the south face along the small cracks into the hole (slings) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Bunclavská věž
Up the NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Boseňská věž
From the south via a crack and through the hole (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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