Part of 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy, Valoun has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Vertical wall, Textile belay, Route on sun.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
5
Lehátko
Through the center of the overhanging west face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Zlatá žíla
Up the south face along cracks, passing a bolt (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Klondike
On the left in the overhanging wall, climb to the summit via a bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Melodické křupání
In the center of the overhanging wall, climb to the summit via a chockstone (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
První cesta - Varianta
In the left part of the overhanging wall, use a small chimney to reach the start of … Rock Climbing Vertical wall
2+
První cesta
On the right in the south wall by crack (not specified). Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
3
Hnízdo
On the left in the south wall near the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall