Part of Ostrov - 2 - východní část, Varhanní stěna has 24 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 6-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
6-
Adamova chlouba
Along the edge past a ring and from the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hasičská spára
Up the wall and through a crack past a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zobák
Right of Stará cesta, up the wall near the edge to the overhang and up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
2+
Průchodová
From the passage between the massif, briefly up the wall to the balcony and a corner to… Rock Climbing
6-
Danovi k narozeninám
Through the center of the overhanging SE wall, past a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jitro života
From the niche left of the chimney, diagonally up the wall to the 1st bolt. Up the wall … Rock Climbing
4-
Bahenní lázeň
In the left part of the NW wall, up cracks to the platform and a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Starý varhaník
Up the wall past 2 bolts below the summit overhang to the 3rd bolt. Over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
5+
Někdo je za dveřmi
In the east-southeast wall, from a shelf left to a ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Preludium
From the space between the Děrava Tower, step left into the wall, briefly using a layback… Rock Climbing
5
Železo za zlato
In the south-west wall, through a hole to a ring and left through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing