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Part of Vstupní obvod, Varle has 3 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4 to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Textile belay, Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: Seasonal ban on climbing from 1.1. to 30.4. Nature Protection Document: measure OP 2019, body of OP CHKO Broumovsko

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

7-/7
Varle
Along the left edge of the SW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Varle
Via the SE wall and a crack (ring - gently hammered into a pine tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Varle
Via the SW chimney to the fore-summit, over an overhang and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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