Part of Ostrov - 3 - jižní část, Velká tovární věž has 28 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7/7+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4-
Levá koutová spára
Up to the ledge, traverse right to the nest and through an overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Vnitřní cesta
Left crack to the block, from there into the inner chimney and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
JZ hrana
From the right into the narrow wall of the SW pillar, to the ring and through the chimney… Rock Climbing
6-
Večer kruté slávy
In the right part of the W wall, briefly up into the right crack and to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing
3
Z cesta
Right crack to the block. Wall by the edge to the large ledge and frosting under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pilířová cesta
To the right of St. c. wall over the ring to the pillar. Fall from the construction to… Rock Climbing
5+
JZ hrana - var
From the ring to the right through the crack into the hole and to the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Kvetoucí máj
In the right part of the W wall into the left crack to the ring of the Večer kruté slávy… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cesta kopanců a ran
Via the S pillar to the balcony and crack to the 1st ring. Edge to the platform, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
V komín
To the left in the E wall, through the crack that widens into a chimney, to the left to… Rock Climbing
5
Sychravá cesta
In the E wall, crack to the ledge. Double crack, higher crack to the balcony to the big… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Polární zajíc
Via Písečná blecha to the ring. Directly through another ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6
S hrana
Narrow S edge and higher indentation to the left and under the summit wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Volání předků
Wall along the NE edge to the ring. Fading left through the crack to the balcony. Left… Rock Climbing
6
Písečná blecha
Through the wall to the ring, traverse left and along the edge to the 2nd ring. Through… Rock Climbing
4+
SV spára
Crack to the bench of the Levá route. Left corner crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Znovuzrozeni
Up the NW edge over 2 rings and straight through the wall to the 2nd ring of the Fagot… Rock Climbing
3
Koutová spára
Through a distinct corner crack to the saddle and over the wedged block to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Cesta pro Sama
Left of the "Fagot" route through the middle of the wall over 3R to the ledge (belay),… Rock Climbing
6-
Fagot
Left of St. c. by the pillar to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the platform. Step left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Ano pane továrníku
Left of the Old Route along the edge through holes to the 1st R. Through the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stará cesta
Through the chimney in the left part of the W wall, later through the inner wall to the… Rock Climbing