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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

6
Lobezský park
Up the vertical, very friable wall (KR) to the rappel anchor of the Doubravecká route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lobezský park
To the right of Nesmyslná route, over the bulge to the 2nd ring of Doubravecká. Rock Climbing
3-
Lobezský park
Behind the left arête of the descent route, up the vertical small wall, at the top… Rock Climbing
3
Lobezský park
Diagonally from left to right, using a falconette/beak step, onto the small balcony. Rock Climbing
4
Lobezský park
Directly up the fall line of the small balcony onto it. Rock Climbing
4+
Lobezský park
Via the 'To the Balcony' route, left up the slab. Rock Climbing
6-
Nesmek
Through the center of the sloping slab, over the small overhang to the 1st ring, right up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Sedmdesátka
Via a short arête to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
?
Lobezský park
From left or right across the entire wall. Rock Climbing
6+
Sedmdesátka
Via a crack to the ring and from there diagonally left upwards, sling, to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Dračí sluj
Via a crack to the balcony to the 1st ring, right to the sloping platform and directly to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
8
Dračí sluj
In the North Face via a crack to the balcony to the 1st ring of Dračí Stěna, from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Dračí sluj
Up the broken crack in the right part of the wall to its end and then freely to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
8
Dračí sluj
Up Dračí stěna to the balcony to the 1st ring. Via BH diagonally left to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Dračí sluj
Up the NE arête via a sharp feature to the ring, from there directly along the arête. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Mušle
Up the arête of the west face, completely to the right, onto the ledge and via N. C. to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6/6+
Dračí sluj
Via the corner in the valley wall, left over the overhanging small arête to the crack and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Mušle
Up the right arête of the W chimney to the ledge (sling). Further somewhat to the left of… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
2
Mušle
From the W, up the inner chimney to the pillar and right into the Normal Route. Rock Climbing
4
Mušle
Up the arête to the left of the Chimney Variation's chimney to the pillar and via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5+
Mušle
From the top of the pillar on the 'Pillar Arête' route, traverse over the ring left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Mušle
Diagonally right and up to the 1st ring, diagonally down to the left edge of the large… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Mušle
Through the crack in the valley wall into the chimney of the Chimney Variant and thereby… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Mušle
From the 3rd ring of the Valley Wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Mušle
From the left wall (2 rings) to the pillar and directly up via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Mušle
Directly over the overhang to the 1st ring of the Path into the Rain. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Mušle
From the boulder on the S wall diagonally right to the ring, from the right to the crack… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Mušle
Left of the Valley Wall to 1 BH, up the wall along the left edge to the ledge and by the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Mušle
Through the valley wall left of the Valley Wall to the 1st BH, up the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Mušle
Through the E wall via BH to the BH of the 'June' route, directly over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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