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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

10-
Dědek
Middle of the S face from the "hollow" to the right, standing start using a crimp and a… Route on sun Vertical wall
8/8+
Dědek
Right part of the W face; sit start: My Angel 8A+ (morpho) Route on sun Vertical wall
10-
Dědek
from the stone along the rounded SW ridge Route on sun Vertical wall
10-/10
10-/10
Dědek
start like "Ice Man", but completely straight, classification approx. 8A+, 8B/B+ SD Route on sun Vertical wall
9/9+
Dědek
to the right of "Bratrská" completely straight over a crimp, from a sit start: Ripe Wine… Route in shadow Vertical wall
8-/8
Dědek
By the rounded NW arête, unfortunately, at the exit, there are drilled artificial holds… Route in shadow Overhang
8-
Dědek
Left part of the N face. Variants: First Grey Hairs II 7A+ (start with both hands from a… Route in shadow Vertical wall
9+/10-
9-/9
Dědek
to the right of the boulder "First Grey Hairs"; SD project approx. 8A from the left or… Route in shadow Vertical wall
8+
Dědek
- CH (start from edge)
10
Dědek
Start in the roof under "Heaven's door" from a side pull and a sloper Route in shadow Overhang
9/9+
Dědek
From the crack to the slab to the right. Route in shadow Vertical wall
10-
Dědek
second part of a great crack Route in shadow Overhang
10+/11-
Dědek
by an amazing crack traverse on the north face Route in shadow Overhang
9+/10-
Dědek
- SD (Knocking on Heaven's Door + Dreamer)
8-/8
Dědek
Traverse a clear fault into Snílek and up it to the top. Sit start variant bottom left… Route in shadow Vertical wall
7-
Dědek
Clear crack on the N face. Originally climbed with a rope and nuts. Sit start 7A+.… Route in shadow Vertical wall Spare Route
8-/8
Dědek
From a big hold to the slab on the N face and happily up the slab with clenched buttocks.… Route in shadow Laid wall
8/8+
Dědek
- (7C+ SD)
10-/10
Dědek
over the crimps in the right part of the east face straight Route in shadow Vertical wall
4+
Vnoučata
9-/9
Dědek
in the left part of the N face, the boulder in the upper half leads slightly to the right… Route in shadow Vertical wall
9/9+
Dědek
- (end to the left to project)
10-
Dědek
Middle of the slab (do not deviate into holds in the Fantasy boulder). Sit start is 8A+. Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Vnoučata
6-
Vnoučata
s) CH (start under arrow)
2
Vnoučata

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