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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

6-
4
?
Hejtman
2
Bunkr
4+
Bunkr
a) (5A SD)
3
Bunkr
b) (5C SD)
2
Sadař
3
Márova vyhlídka
6
Hejtman
3
Márova vyhlídka
3
Sadař
5+
Mlejnek
Via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mlejnek
Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Mlejnek
Up the wall, higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3+
Melicharka
From the left into the corner (its bottom is fragile), then under the wall and up it to… Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2
3
Melicharka
By the corner and further up the wall to the left of the tree. Through another corner… Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2
4-
Mlejnek
Through the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Melicharka
Directly into Svidenský corner and under the overhang. Further left to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2
3+
Melicharka
By the small pillar, higher up by a broken crack to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +1
4+
Melicharka
To the right of Vyhraněná directly over the bolt to the chain. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Melicharka
To the left of the edge (sk) to the summit. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +2
5-
Melicharka
Up the wall via overhanging steps (bh) to the balcony (sk) and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Melicharka
Up along the indistinct edge. Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +1
6+
Melicharka
Over the overhang above the fireplace to the second balcony, up the right overhanging… Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2
4-
Melicharka
By the corner, right to a large balcony, traverse right along it and up via route no. 9. Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2
4
Melicharka
By the small corner, along the second balcony to the left towards the birch tree, up to… Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2
5
Melicharka
Up the left edge to the first balcony. Above it, a wedged pebble (hourglass). Right and… Rock Climbing Friends Route in shadow +2

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