Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Encián, Alpská 8/8+

Czech Republic, East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora, Alpská

8/8+

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 8/8+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 12 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8/8+
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.61014, 16.11342

Parking 996 m

50.61697, 16.12254

To the right of the left valley edge, up the crack (1st ring) to the ledge in the alcove. Left up the wall (2nd ring) into the small chimney/dihedral and diagonally left along it to the edge to the 3rd ring. Along the edge, also with the help of the small chimney/dihedral to its right, over 3 more rings into the exit chimney/dihedral and to the summit.
Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing is not allowed. Nature Conservation Document: Conservation measure 2019, Conservation Authority Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area.

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 8/8+)
8/8+
Blembák
Via the chimney between Přilba (Helmet) and Blembak into the crack and via it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Hrad
From the suspended boulder above the viewpoint with Saxon-style construction (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Gigolo
By crack to the ring, upwards into a small fissure (2nd ring), via a fissure into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Hadí
Via the Dubček crack for 5m and right to the arête via Bh and 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Rádža
3 rings Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Uhlířská
On the east edge via a system of cracks (4 rings) under the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Other climbing routes in Alpská
4-
Alpská
In the right southern corner, ascend via a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4-
Alpská
Left of the Old Route, ascend via a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4-
Alpská
From SW, ascend via a chimney to the pillar and then via a groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Alpská
From the W corner, ascend via a chimney to a smaller pillar and via the wall (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Alpská
Near the northern edge, ascend via a corner crack to a small platform. Then via a double… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Alpská
Right of the western corner, ascend via a crack into the hole and then via the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Alpská
Left of the western corner, ascend via a crack into the "Corner Crack" hole and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Alpská
To the right of the S corner, up the wall into the corner crack, then (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Alpská
Following the crack climbers' route to the ring, traverse left to the edge and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Alpská
From the valley side, up the chimney to the block and (with aid) into the recess. Right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2