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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Sklerotik
From the 'Okrajovka' (edge) descend to the plateau (SE) side of the tower. Climbing, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Chameleon
From the south, traverse left on the slanted wall and via a crack to the balcony. Over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Placka
From the plateau side via the left edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Placka
From the plateau side via the right edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Placka
Via the SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Placka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Baloun
Route 'Four' into the small cave and straight over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Baloun
From the SW by a diagonal crack to the end and left by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Baloun
From the valley from the NW by crack and chimney to the balcony, by crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baloun
Center of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Baloun
Right of the north edge by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Baloun
From the block on the N side by wall, left (ring) to the edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Sokolík
On the plateau side, via a chimney to the pillar. From the overhang (aid climbing), along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mošna
In the right part of the SW face via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rádža
At the upland (southern) edge via the face to the pillar, left via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krakonoš
From the SW via a chimney and crack to the pillar. Bouldering/stemming, wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krakonoš
By opposition against the upper pillar, higher up by crack to the top of the pillar, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Dálkový student
In the middle of the NW wall, by crack 1st Q, crack 2nd Q, small crack and wall 3rd Q and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Podhoubí
From the chimney between the pillars from the W (from Malá starostová), via a hand crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Podhoubí
Via the upper (from S) widening crack over the overhang to the pillars and from the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Dvojhlavá
Via the right NE crack and chimney to the pillar, traverse along the ledge to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojhlavá
Via the left upper (NE) crack to the hole. Via the crack (aiding) and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vosí věž
From the NE, via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Vosí věž
To the left of the Old Route, via a crack to a small platform to the ring (by aiding) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Vosí věž
In the SE (upper) wall, via the wall into the gully to Q route "Baucuk". Straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Vosí věž
To the right in the SW wall, via a crack to the platform (ring). From the small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
3
Svišť
From the valley side, via the chimney to the block. Via the crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Svišť
From the valley side, via the chimney to the block. Via the crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Přílba
From the plateau side (from Svist), via the chimney to the platform. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Přílba
In the approximately north wall, via the crack to its end (ring), left into another crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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