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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
6+/7-
Bragliho věž
Follow the Corner Route to the ring, traverse left to the edge and along it (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Konipas
Right into the valley wall (ring) and then friction climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Bragliho věž
From NW, ascend via the corner crack (ring) and then via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Konipas
In the valley wall, ascend by building up over the 1st ring to the 2nd Q, then via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Jebáček
In the valley wall, in the left part, climb into the crack to the 1st ring. Via the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Jebáček
Via the old route to Lesáček to the saddle. Via a wide crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Jebáček
Via the old route to the pillar (ring), then left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Jebáček
From SW, via a crack to the ledge to the ring. To the left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Lesáček
The start is below the center of the SE wall. Solid climbing to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
3
Lesáček
From the upper side, via a crack to the saddle and then a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Lesáček
From the slope below the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Lesáček
To the right of the start, via the chimney to the saddle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Divá Bára
Via a wide crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Pohodářka
The upper part is an unusually beautifully featured little wall, easily to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Divá Bára
From the pillar on the upper (SE) side, by stepping over and up the wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Divá Bára
From the west edge, left via a corner and cracks 1st and 2nd ring. Up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Divá Bára
From NE to the saddle. Via a wide crack to the small pillar. Overhang and wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Křen
From the valley side, directly through a crack into the corner crack. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Křen
From the upper side, traverse along the ledge to the left to the valley side, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Křen
From the middle of the traverse of the Koutová (Corner) route, via a crack in the NW wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Culík
Directly below the rappel, up the chimney to the 2nd circle, through a crack (birch) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Culík
To the left of the route, along the edge through a crack and fissure to the end. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Culík
From the chimney of the Hranou route, traverse the wall to the right and through a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4+
Culík
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the circle and along the western edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Tři sestry
From the gap between towers, through the left crack over 2 circles to the pillar (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Tři sestry
Through a double crack in the corner over a circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Tři sestry
To the right of the route "Owl in Mazut", up the wall along the left edge over 3 circles… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Lidový vypravěč
To the right on the SW side of the tower, up the chimney to the pillar. By building … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rodinná hrobka
Through Sokolík (from the start of the Old Route variant - Over the Fichtle to Milenec)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Milenci
Through the chimney "C. of Sunshine" to the pillar and further along the edge of Milenec… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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